Introduction to Tochal Peak and Climbing Routes

Introduction to Tochal Peak and Climbing Routes

Tochal, this towering peak at an elevation of 3,963 meters, is not only the highest point near the capital but also the beating heart of Tehran’s mountaineering scene due to its easy access and natural beauty. Part of the Central Alborz range, with climbs beginning from 1,805 meters above sea level, it derives its name from “Chal-e Abgir” (Catchment Basin) or “Small Lake,” referring to an ice lake that formerly existed next to the summit.

The Tochal mountain range, a shining gem of Central Alborz and the “Green Roof” of the capital, rests north of the Tehran metropolis and Shemiranat County. Overlooking Tehran, its southern slopes embrace the city, while to the north, it reaches the beautiful villages of Ahar, Shekrab, and Shahrestanak.

Shelters and Refuges: A Haven for Mountaineers

The routes leading to Tochal Peak are equipped with numerous shelters and refuges. From east to west, these include: Darabad (Moongchal), Kolakchal, Shervin, Shirpala, Tochal Summit Refuge (Ardalan), Amiri, Oson Hotel, Cable Car Station 5, Espid-Kamar Refuge, and Palangchal. These shelters often provide a safe and comfortable space for climbers, offering unparalleled views of Tehran.

• Shirpala Shelter: Located at 2,750 meters, north of Twin Falls and next to the Pas-Qaleh River. This three-story shelter belongs to the Mountaineering Federation and features full amenities, including a dormitory, dining hall, and restrooms. It is one of the most popular spots for overnight stays.

• Amiri Refuge (Siah-Sang): This two-story stone refuge at 3,500 meters has no welfare facilities. it was built by the family of Ali Amiri in his memory.

• Circular Metal Refuge: Situated exactly at the Tochal summit, this double-walled metal refuge was built by the late Mohammad Davoudi, former secretary of the Mountaineering Federation, for emergencies and storms.

Climbing Routes: Variety for All Tastes

Tochal offers diverse climbing routes suitable for mountaineers with various physical fitness levels. The most common and popular routes include:

• Darband: A very popular route passing through Shirpala and Siah-Sang to reach the summit.

• Jamshidieh Park: This route passes through the Kolakchal Shelter and Piazchal Valley, reaching both Tochal and Piazchal peaks.

• Velenjak: Provides easy access via the 5th and 7th stations of the Tochal Cable Car.

• Darakeh: This path goes through the Palangchal Shelter and the 5th and 7th stations of the cable car.

• Darabad: Passes through Darabad Peak and Piazchal Peak to reach Tochal.

• Darband (Old Route): Passes through the Oson junction, Oson Valley, Espid-Kamar Refuge, and Cable Car Station 7.

Ascents are also possible from the northern slopes (Shekrab), as well as via Imamzadeh Davood, Shahrestanak, and Chin-Kalagh, though these are less frequently used.

Geographical Location

Tochal Peak is situated on the east-west ridgeline of the Central Alborz range. To the east, it connects to the peaks of West Lezon, East Lezon (Piazchal), Band-e Larkarvar, Siahband, Shahrbanoo Kushak, Chanbareh-band, and Darabad. To the west, it leads to the peaks of Homand-e Tochal, Homand-e Shah-Neshin, Shah-Neshin, Si-o-Se Cham, Bazarak, No-Dashtak, Lavarak, Seh-Sang, Menar, and finally to the village of Morood at kilometer 35 of the Chalous Road (Pol-e Khab area). This strategic position makes Tochal a central hub for accessing other Central Alborz peaks.

Routes to Tochal: A Journey to the Heart of the Mountain

Climbing Tochal is possible via various routes, each with its own characteristics in terms of difficulty, slope, and duration.

1. Southern Routes (The Most Traveled)

• Sarband – Shirpala – Amiri Refuge – Tochal Summit (The Most Common Route): This is the most popular way to climb Tochal. It begins at Sarband Square and the famous Mountaineer Statue. After 30 minutes of gentle hiking, you reach Pas-Qaleh village. The main path then steepens, passing riverside teahouses to reach the beginning of the rocky Shirpala section. This part is secured with metal stairs and cables. After about 2 hours, you reach the Shirpala Mountain Sports Complex at 2,850 meters. From here, the path continues north for about 2 hours to the Amiri Refuge, followed by another 1 to 1.5 hours to the summit.

• Sarband – Shirpala – Narges Spring – Charpaloon Ridge: A more difficult option for experienced climbers.

• Sarband – Oson Junction – Oson Valley – Espid-Kamar – Station 7 – Tochal (The Oldest Route): Passes through the beautiful Oson Valley and is considered a historic path.

• Velenjak – Station 5 – Station 7 – Tochal: A high-traffic route that covers a large portion via cable car. The total distance from Station 1 to the summit is 17 km. This is ideal for those seeking a shorter hike with more facilities.

2. South-Western Routes

• Komachal Ridge: Very low traffic; ideal for those seeking solitude.

• Kara Forest – Chin-Kalagh – Doshakh – Palangchal – Shah-Neshin – Tochal: A long, challenging route through pristine nature, suitable for professionals.

• Darakeh – Palangchal – Station 5 – Station 7 – Tochal: A highly popular route starting from Darakeh.

3. South-Eastern Route

• Jamshidieh Park – Kolakchal Shelter – Piazchal Valley – Tochal: Begins in the lush Jamshidieh Park and reaches the summit via the Piazchal peaks.

4. Western Route

• Menar Peak (Chalous Road) – Lavarak – Shah-Neshin – Tochal: One of the longest and most difficult routes, requiring high physical fitness and significant experience.

5. Eastern Route

• Darabad – Darabad Peak – Piazchal – Tochal: Famous and difficult due to the “Darabad Knifedge” (Teeghe-ha) section.

6. Northern Routes

• Igel Ridge (Northern Slope): Leads directly below the summit; recommended for professionals due to the steep slope.

• Ahar Ridge – Qazghonchal – Homand Pass – Tochal: A less-used northern approach.

7. North-Western Route

• Shahrestanak Village – Tochal Hotel – Tochal Summit: Starts from the historic village of Shahrestanak.

• Imamzadeh Davood Slopes: These are among the less-climbed and more pristine routes.

Important Mountaineering Tips

During the warm seasons, Tochal hosts climbers of all levels. However, winter climbing requires full professional equipment, high mountaineering experience, and excellent physical fitness. It is never recommended to climb this peak alone in winter. Mountaineering clubs can be great guides for planning your ascent.

Tochal offers a unique opportunity to experience the pristine nature of Central Alborz. Selecting the right route based on your ability and weather conditions can result in an unforgettable climb.

Would you like more details on a specific route, or do you have questions about the facilities available at the shelters?