Guide to Climbing Mount Damavand

Guide to Climbing Mount Damavand via the Southern Route

Why should you climb Mount Damavand, specifically via the Southern Route?

• Damavand is the highest peak in Iran and the tallest mountain in the entire Middle East.

• It is the most popular mountain in Iran; standing on its summit and overlooking the vast Persian landscape is the dream of every Iranian mountaineer.

• Damavand is a dormant, partially semi-active volcano and is considered the highest volcano in Asia. Ararat (5165m) and Sabalan (4811m) rank second and third, respectively.

• With a prominence of 4,667 meters relative to its lowest surrounding point, the Damavand volcanic massif is the 12th most prominent independent mountain in the world. This high relative altitude is the primary reason the mountain is visible from very long distances.

• The beautiful form of Mount Damavand, which resembles a solitary symmetrical cone due to its volcanic nature, has few global peers (such as Mount Fuji) and is one of its main attractions.

• Some of Iran’s most prominent and massive permanent glaciers, such as Khortab-sar, Dubisel, Yakhar, Sioleh, and Aroosak-ha, are located on the northern slopes, offering a magnificent sight.

• With sulfur gas eruptions near the summit and hot springs in the southeast, Damavand shows clear signs of being a semi-active volcano to climbers.

• Damavand is registered as Iran’s first natural site on the National Heritage List. Over the past century, its image has appeared numerous times on official Iranian banknotes.

• It is classified as a National Natural Monument among the four categories of Iran’s protected environmental areas.

• Based on the number of fatalities in 2011, National Geographic ranked it as the 10th most dangerous mountain in the world, making a successful ascent highly valuable.

• No mountain in Persian literature (such as the History of Bal’ami) or Iranian mythology is as famous as Damavand. Arash the Archer shot his arrow from its heights, and Zahhak is said to be imprisoned within it. Some locals still believe the sounds heard from the mountain are his moans.

• It is so renowned that National Damavand Day and a dedicated festival held annually in Rineh have been registered. The national music of Mount Damavand, performed by Salar Aghili, was unveiled in 2012 during the Tirgan Festival before 9,000 people.

• Various unique flora grow at different altitudes, including a unique species of poppy found only on certain elevations of Damavand. The pastures remain rich even at 4,000 meters.

• A diverse range of wildlife inhabits the mountain, including foxes, jackals, wolves, bears, wild goats, rams, boars, rabbits, and birds like golden eagles and owls. There are also five types of (non-lethal) snakes, scorpions, monitor lizards, and badgers. You may spot them, especially below 4,000 meters, if you use less-traveled routes.

• The Southern Route is the easiest path to the summit in terms of trail quality and the absence of technical rock scrambling, making it ideal for first-timers.

• It is the most frequented route, meaning the risk of getting lost is negligible and rescue operations are more accessible.

• The southern route features a suitable road and vehicle service to Goosfand-sara (Ehsani) at 3,000m, and mule transport services up to 4,200m.

• This is the only route that passes near the Damavand Icefall (Abshar-e Yakhi).

• It is the best route for viewing the sulfur hills and gas vents near the summit.

• Bargah-e Sevvom (The Third Camp) at 4,250m is the best-equipped shelter on Damavand, providing beds, food, and various amenities.

Essential Information Before Deciding to Climb via the Southern Route

Where is Mount Damavand located?

Damavand is located in the Central Alborz Mountains. Administratively, it sits in the Larijan district of Amol County, Mazandaran Province. It is situated along the Haraz Road, 62 km southwest of Amol and 69 km northeast of Tehran. On clear days, it is visible from Tehran, Qom, and the southern shores of the Caspian Sea.

What is the altitude of the summit and the starting point?

The summit altitude is 5,610 meters above sea level. Historically, due to measurement limitations, 5,671m was cited in textbooks, but this is now known to be inaccurate. The prominence (relative height) is 4,667 meters. Depending on your starting point, you must gain between 2,000 to 3,900 meters of elevation. For the southern route in winter, you might start from the parking lot at 2,450m (a 3,150m total gain). Typically, you can reach Goosfand-sara at 3,020m by car, leaving a 2,600m elevation gain to the top.

Climbing Routes to Damavand (Specifically the Southern Options)

Damavand has at least 16 recognized routes, a variety unmatched by any other Iranian mountain. These were first identified and climbed by the late Jalal Rabooki.

1. Southern Route (from Polour or Rineh): Starts at Goosfand-sara/Saheb al-Zaman Mosque. Passes the Icefall and Sulfur Hills. Features Bargah-e Sevvom (4,250m). The easiest and most common route.

2. Northeast Route (Nandal Village): Starts from Gardeneh-sar. Passes Dash-e Chaman and the Yakhar/Aroosak-ha glaciers. Features Takht-e Fereydoun shelter (4,400m). Difficult but beautiful.

3. Northern Route (Nandal Village): Starts at “Sang-e Bozorg” (The Big Rock). Passes between Khortab-sar and Sioleh glaciers. Has two shelters (4,000m and 4,650m). One of the hardest routes.

4. Western Route (Polour/Lar Road): Starts from the Western Ridge parking. Features Simorgh Shelter (4,200m). Relatively difficult.

5. Sioleh and Sardagh (Northwest Route): Starts from the end of the western road. Short but difficult.

6. Gazaneh / Yakhar Ridge (East to Northeast): Starts from Gazaneh village gardens (1,750m). One of the longest and hardest due to the massive elevation gain.

7. Lumer Ridge (Aspirin-sar): Parallel to the southern route; accessed via a traverse from the dirt road before Goosfand-sara. Relatively difficult.

8. Molla-khoran Ridge: Parallel to the southern route; accessed by traversing east from Goosfand-sara. Relatively difficult.

9. Ghareghe (Mine) Ridge: Branches off the southern dirt road. Merges with Chal-chal ridge. Relatively difficult.

10. Chal-chal Ridge (Southwest): Accessed via the western road. Relatively difficult.

11. Serozan Ridge (West): Starts from the western parking, merging with Chal-chal above 5,000m.

12. Vazmin-chal Ridge (East – Melar Village): Starts from the pumice mine valley. Very difficult.

13. Larijan Hot Springs Ridge (Southeast): Starts from Upper Larijan. Relatively difficult.

14. Padegan (Garrison) Ridge (Southeast – Rineh): Starts near the garrison west of Rineh. One of the hardest.

15. Melar Blades (East – Melar Village): Passes the Yakhar glacier’s towers. Very difficult.

16. Yakhar Valley (East): Not a standard route. Extremely long with high rockfall risk. Perhaps the most dangerous route. Jalal Rabooki lost his life here.

Note: The first four (South, North, West, Northeast) are the primary routes with better facilities.

Popularity and Difficulty

Why is the Southern Route so popular? It offers the best-maintained trails, no technical climbing, and extensive support services (transport, mules, food, and shelter). Highlights like the Icefall and Sulfur vents are major draws.

How difficult is it? While the Southern Route is the “easiest,” climbing Damavand is always hard to very hard due to the high altitude. It requires the stamina to trek 22–30 km on steep, rugged terrain. In winter, even this route becomes grueling, though it remains the safest winter option.

Access and Logistics

• From Tehran: 1.5 to 2 hours (80–98 km) to Polour/Rineh via Haraz Road.

• From Amol: 1.2 to 1.5 hours (82–94 km).

• Access: From the main Haraz Road, take the turn-offs for Polour or Rineh. The Southern Parking (end of asphalt) is between these two towns. From there, a 6.5 km dirt road (30 mins by 4WD) leads to Goosfand-sara.

Best Time to Climb

August is the peak month due to higher temperatures and lower winds. July and September are also good but require careful weather monitoring.

• Winter/Spring: Temperatures can drop to -40°C to -60°C, with winds exceeding 100 km/h and heavy blizzards.

• Spring: Highly unstable weather with serious avalanche and rockfall risks.

Accommodation and Food

• Food: Stick to high-energy, familiar foods (carbs, soups, dried fruits). Avoid changing your diet right before the climb. Recommended restaurants: Rogoli (Polour) and Salari (Rineh junction).

• Lodging:

  • Emamzadeh Hashem (2,700m): Good for acclimatization; has a guesthouse and hotel.

  • Polour Federation Complex (2,260m): Modern facilities and dorms.

  • Goosfand-sara / Saheb al-Zaman Mosque (3,050m): Can stay in the mosque building or camp.

  • Bargah-e Sevvom (4,250m): The main mountain hut with private/public rooms.

Essential Gear

Multi-day backpack, high-top hiking boots, UV sunglasses, sunscreen, thermal layers (base, fleece, down jacket, Gore-Tex), gloves, winter gear (double boots, crampons, ice axe for off-season), GPS/Powerbank, tent, sleeping bag, headlamp, and oxygen spray if necessary.

Recommended Itinerary

A 3-day program is ideal for most climbers to allow for proper acclimatization. Experienced climbers may attempt it in 1 or 2 days, but a slower pace increases the chance of success.