Alam-Kuh: The Alps of Iran
Alam-Kuh is a peak in the Takht-e Suleiman region located in the Kelardasht district of Mazandaran Province. The elevation of the Alam-Kuh summit is 4,850 meters, making it the second-highest peak in Iran after Mount Damavand and one of the 1,515 “ultra-prominent” peaks in the world.
This peak is famous for the wall located on its northern slope, which features the most technical and difficult rock climbing and wall climbing routes in Iran. In the Iranian climbing community, this wall holds a status similar to K2 in the global context.
The Takht-e Suleiman region, with 47 peaks over 4,000 meters and numerous glaciers, snowfields, and walls, is the most famous highland area in Iran and a familiar name for both domestic and international mountaineers.
Geographical Location of Alam-Kuh
Alam-Kuh is situated 20 kilometers southwest of Kelardasht in Mazandaran Province. Kelardasht is the closest city in Mazandaran to this area, while Prachan and Taleqan are the nearest towns in Alborz Province. From its northern face, the mountain overlooks Kelardasht, and from its southern face, it overlooks Taleqan.
Naming of Alam-Kuh and Takht-e Suleiman
Various accounts exist regarding the origin of the region’s name, most of which are attributed to the era of Prophet Solomon (Suleiman). These legends primarily arose due to the presence of timber located at the top of the peak.
Sani-ol-Dowleh writes in the book Mirat al-Buldan: “In Tonekabon, there is a mountain famous as Takht-e Suleiman (Solomon’s Throne). Ascending the peak on horseback is impossible, and for a pedestrian, it is possible in mid-summer but variable. At the summit, there is a gable-roofed wooden structure that fits two people. It is famous that Prophet Solomon came atop this mountain. Under the stone-covered gable, there is a shape resembling a snake; the inhabitants say Solomon turned this snake into stone.”
Introduction to Alam-Kuh Peak
According to one local legend passed down through generations, Solomon proposed to Bilqis (the Queen of Sheba). Bilqis asked Solomon to prepare a bridal chamber for their wedding night in a place that was the highest and coldest of all points.
Solomon ordered all animals to search for the coldest spot. At night, all animals except the Hoopoe (Hodo-hodo) returned and reported they couldn’t find such a place. There was no news of the Hoopoe that night. The next day, an hour after sunrise, the Hoopoe returned and reported: “I came across a place higher and colder than anywhere else, so cold that my wings froze. I had to spend the night there with great hardship and reached here only after the sun rose and the ice on my wings melted.” Solomon ordered a palace to be built there and spent the wedding night with Bilqis in that location.
Alam-Kuh, at 4,850 meters, acts like the center of an octopus with many ridgelines connected to it:
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The ridgeline of Kurmaku – Kallahu – Kaljaran – Siah Qu-ha – Rostam Nish – Dandan-e Azhdaha – Takht-e Suleiman – Shaneh Kuh – German Flank (Gorde-ye Alman-ha) – Alam-Kuh.
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The ridgeline of Pasand-e Kuh – Siah Kaman (subsidiary) – Chalon – Siah Sang – Shakhak – Alam-Kuh.
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The ridgeline of Zarrineh Kuh – Alaneh Sar – Lashgark-ha – Gardon Kuh – Menareh – Setareh – Southern Khersan – Viraneh Kuh – Northern Khersan – Alam-Kuh.
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The ridgeline of Ovidar – Divchal – Saman – Hesarchal Plain – Marjikesh – Alam-Kuh.
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The ridgeline of Haft Khan – Southern Khersan – Northern Khersan – Alam-Kuh.
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The subsidiary ridgeline of Angosht-e Khoda (Finger of God) – Negin-e Alam to Alam-Kuh.
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The subsidiary ridgeline of Tangeh Galu – Siah Sang – Alam-Kuh.
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The subsidiary ridgeline of Mian-Seh-Chal – Shaneh Kuh – German Flank – Alam-Kuh.
Most of these peaks are above 4,000 meters, and climbing each one is considered a major mountaineering expedition.
The Alam-Kuh Wall
On the northern face of this peak, there is a 650-meter-long wall which is considered one of the most beautiful and difficult walls in the world.
The North-Northeast face consists of an approximately 650-meter granite wall. In various sources, the height of this wall is sometimes mentioned as 800 meters when including the Alamchal Glacier (approx. 150m), which meets the wall at a relatively steep slope.
The wall is composed of porous granite with a light tan/russet color. For a long time, Alam-Kuh and its wall have been the focus of mountaineers. Not only Iranians, but also German, French, English, and Italian climbers have established numerous routes on this wall. The “German Flank” and “French Route” were among the first routes opened.
Notable routes on the Alam-Kuh wall include:
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Harry Rost
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Arash
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Kermanshahis
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Ehsan
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Italians (Crystal Fall)
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Iranians
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Poles 48
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Razhia (meaning “plain,” the ancient name of Qazvin)
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Karajis
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Hamadanis 67 and 69
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French
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Poles 52
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Shokouh
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Bamdad
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Arakis
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Tabrizis
Climbing Routes to Alam-Kuh
Due to the connection of Alam-Kuh with surrounding mountains and the presence of walls and ridges, there are many ways to reach it. The common routes are categorized into two southern routes, one northern route, and one wall-climbing route.
Southern Face Route The trekking route that starts from Rudbarak and passes through Vandarbon, Tangeh Galu, and Hesarchal to reach the summit from the south. This is the simplest route, usually involving an overnight stay in the Hesarchal Plain.
Northern Face Route The northern trekking route also begins in Rudbarak, passing through Vandarbon, Sarchal Shelter, Alamchal, and the Siah Sang pass to reach the summit from the east. This is considered one of the most difficult trekking routes in Iran and usually includes a night at the Sarchal Shelter.
The German Flank (Gorde-ye Alman-ha) A mountaineering route starting from Rudbarak, passing through Vandarbon, Sarchal, Alamchal, and the German Flank to reach the summit directly from the north. This route is shorter in time than the Siah Sang route but requires technical equipment and usually involves a night at Sarchal.
The Northern Wall Route The big-wall route starts from Rudbarak, passing through Vandarbon, Sarchal, and Alamchal to reach the summit via the North Wall. The experience varies depending on which of the many wall routes is chosen.
Best and Easiest Route to the Summit
The most suitable and easiest way to climb Alam-Kuh is via Marzanabad to Kelardasht (Hasankif section) and the village of Rudbarak.
At the end of Rudbarak, the Mountaineering Federation complex is located, providing full amenities. Many climbers stay here, where there is parking, restrooms, a buffet, a small gear shop, and rooms for rest. Due to the climbing season, it can be crowded, so it is best to coordinate in advance.
Some climbers choose the Vandarbon complex for their stay. It is located further along the dirt road from Rudbarak toward Tangeh Galu. Vandarbon is popular for those planning to climb the Wall or the German Flank, as the routes diverge from this point. All amenities are provided, and it is accessible via a 10km relatively level dirt road from Rudbarak.
From Tangeh Galu to Hesarchal To reach Hesarchal, you must arrange for a Nissan (capacity up to 12) or a Land Rover (capacity up to 6) from Rudbarak or Vandarbon to take your group to the start of Tangeh Galu. The drive takes about 1.5 hours on rough terrain; using ordinary passenger cars is strictly discouraged. This road is closed from mid-autumn to late spring due to snow, floods, and avalanches.
The Trek to Hesarchal From the start of Tangeh Galu, the path is well-defined. You must cross the river once via a wooden bridge. Fog is common in Tangeh Galu, so caution is needed. After about two hours of hiking, you enter the beautiful Hesarchal Plain. At an elevation of 3,400 meters, this plain is surrounded by 4,000m peaks and has plenty of water but a cold climate.
The Alam-Kuh summit is not visible from the plain. One of the landmarks here is Menareh Peak, easily recognizable by its unique shape. If you face Menareh, the path to the summit is roughly to your right.
Most groups camp overnight in Hesarchal. If you leave Rudbarak at 8 AM, you will typically reach Hesarchal before 3 PM. The next morning, 7 AM is a good time to start the final push to the summit with a light pack.
Reaching the Summit
The climb takes between 4 to 6 hours at a normal pace. If weather permits, the summit is visible during the last hour or two. You can descend via a scree slope (shen-oski), but in the busy summer season, this may be unsafe due to falling rocks from above.
From the summit, the Alamchal glacier and the peaks of Siah Kaman and Chalon are clearly visible. In clear weather, Azad-Kuh and Damavand can also be seen. Because of its narrow shape, the summit doesn’t have much room for sitting or standing. Remember that the second-highest wall in Iran is right beneath your feet—stay away from the edges and be careful not to dislodge rocks.
Best Time to Climb
The best time is from the second half of July to the second half of August, when the nature of the region is indescribably beautiful.
Weather and Glaciers
In autumn and winter, Alam-Kuh faces heavy snow, storms, and frequent avalanches. This continues into spring. Summer is milder, with prevailing winds coming from the west (Se-Hezar region). Like Sabalan, Alam-Kuh features large permanent glaciers, including Sarchal, Alamchal, Takht-e Suleiman, Marjikesh, Khersan, Haft Khan, Chalon, Shaneh Kuh, and Split.
Historic Climbs
The years 1981 to 1991 (1360-1370 SH) were the peak of Iranian big-wall climbing evolution. Greats like the late Hossein Talebi-Moqaddam and other Hamadani climbers significantly lowered speed records, eventually setting the legendary record of climbing 3 routes in a single day. Another masterpiece was Talebi-Moqaddam opening the Hamadanis route in just 6 hours, and Hassan Najarian’s solo climb of the Harry Rost route in 1994.
